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SDR / How it broke / Flood or fire damage

Cause of loss · flood or fire

Soaked or scorched, the rule is the same: no power, no drying.

Platters shrug off water. Files come through blazes that leave the computer a shell. The damage comes later, from kindly meant rescue attempts — switching it on 'just to see', the airing cupboard, the rice — and from delay, since corrosion sets in inside hours. Bag it and post it now.

Most jobs: no data back, no charge Free diagnosis & quote in writing Postal intake across all of Hampshire

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What those signs actually mean.

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On screenWhat that tells youFirst step
Lifeless since the leak or floodingThe board has taken the water; inside, the platters are very likely untouchedBag it damp and post it
Knocks out the socket or power supply on connectionA short on the PCB; each retry drives current through the head preampStop trying it
Furry white or green deposits round the contactsCorrosion has taken hold and is still movingTime is against you
Came out of a fire in one pieceA sealed casing protects the platters, and a melted PCB can be swappedTreat it carefully and leave it closed
Soot in the ports or vent holesAcidic, gritty contamination — lethal once the disk spinsDo not clean it, do not power it
Dunked in sea waterChloride goes after the magnetic coating itself, the harshest damage of allLeave it damp, sealed up
Sending it in: send your device by tracked, fully insured post to our secure intake lab — return postage is free — or ring us first and we'll talk you through packing it. Postage details sit on the contact page.

Which parts come through.

Water against the plattersImmersion does not bother the recording surfaces. What suffers is the PCB, the head contacts and the connectors — all of them cleanable or replaceable.
Fire against the electronicsHeat destroys the circuit board while the platters remain indifferent — and boards are swappable, once the ROM chip unique to your drive moves onto a donor.
Sea water against tap waterTap water eats away slowly; the sea does worse. Dissolved chloride attacks the magnetic coating directly, so a drive out of the Solent travels bagged, still wet, never dried.
Smoke and sootThe damage fire does after the flames: acidic, gritty, everywhere. Let a contaminated drive turn and it grinds itself apart — cleaning comes long before power.

How the recovery runs, step by step.

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01

Logged in, checked at no cost Free

As soon as it lands with us, your device gets its own case number. An engineer works out the fault, says what can genuinely be pulled off, then puts one fixed price in writing — no charge for diagnosis, no obligation, and no chargeable work until you approve it.

No-cost diagnosisQuote fixed in writingNo commitment
02

Contain it, then settle it

A soaked disk is bagged damp for the journey: drying crystallises dissolved salts onto the surfaces. Fire cases come packed, still shut, soot left alone.

Damp arrives dampSealed the whole journey
03

Clean up, then reconstruct

We lift the corrosion, bring the contacts back, and fit a donor board carrying your drive's own ROM — new electronics around untouched platters.

Corrosion cleaned offROM chip moved over
04

Copy it while it lasts

The moment treatment stops, corrosion picks up again, so a full image is taken without delay — after that the original is finished with.

Copied the moment it is stableThe old drive never spins again
05

Checked, returned, signed off

You sign off a complete list of the recovered files first; only then does the recovery fee fall due. Everything returns on fresh media, postage paid, and the job stays open until you confirm the files open at your end.

Sign-off on the file listFresh media suppliedReturn postage on us

First checks on the bench

  • Corrosion begins in hours — a soaking needs dealing with now, not when the diary allows.
  • Switch on a damp drive and you short the PCB while overloading the head preamp — turning a cleaning job into a head transplant.
  • Sea water fights dirty — chloride goes straight for the magnetic coating, which is why those jobs come to us damp, bagged and fast.
  • Fire wrecks things in a helpful sequence — electronics go early, platters go last. The inexpensive half gets rebuilt around the irreplaceable half.

What every flood and fire job has in common: the result is settled before we ever see the drive — by whether somebody hit the power switch, and how quickly it got here. Bagged, untried and posted the same day, they come back routinely; 'I only gave it a quick go' on a soaked board is what turns a board swap into a head swap as well.

Out of the casebook.

EX · SDR-2026-0652CONFIRMED ✓

A pipe let go in a home office; the drive came in a sandwich bag

The owner got it exactly right: left unpowered, bagged while still wet, in the post by morning. We cleaned the contacts, swapped the shorted board with its ROM moved over, and imaged the whole disk that week — twenty years of family photographs, safe and dry.

100% retrieved4 days on the bench

While it's still with you.

Do

  • Kill the power and leave it dead — the surrounding NAS or PC too
  • Bag it up, still damp if that's how it came
  • Tell us the type of water: clean, foul or sea
  • Act quickly — corrosion sets the deadline

Avoid

  • Bury it in rice — useless on a sealed drive, and the wait only helps corrosion
  • Reach for a hairdryer, heater, warm cupboard or oven
  • Switch it on just to find out
  • Brush off the soot or crack the case open

Bench questions, straight answers.

Is anything retrievable from a water-damaged drive?

Normally yes, provided nobody switched it on while wet and it gets to a lab soon. Water tends to spare the platters and ruin the circuitry — and circuitry can be swapped.

Does rice help a soaked drive?

No. For sealed electronics, rice is a myth — it never gets inside, it adds starch and grit, and corrosion keeps spreading the whole time the device sits there.

Does a hard drive live through a house fire?

Often. Platters sit inside a sealed metal casing, and a scorched board can simply be swapped. What really threatens the data is warping from heat and soot ingress — so leave the drive shut, unwashed and unpowered.

Is it better to dry it out first?

No — odd as it sounds, that's right. As things dry, dissolved salts and minerals crystallise on the surfaces. Seal a water-damaged drive; leave a salt-water one wet, until it reaches the bench.

Whatever has gone wrong, keep it switched off.

Powering a damaged device up again costs you data. Start a case first; diagnosis is free whatever you decide.

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